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Ultimate Guide to Huaraz, Peru: Hiking the Cordillera Blanca
Top Treks and Tips for Santa Cruz, Laguna 69, Huayhuash...
CT Dool
January 06, 2025 • Read Time: 19 minutes
The Ultimate Guide to Hiking in Huaraz, Peru
Welcome to Huaraz, Peru—the gateway to the Andes and home to some of the world’s most jaw-dropping treks.
Whether you’re tackling the famous Santa Cruz trek or taking on a day hike to Laguna 69, this guide will help you plan every step of your adventure.
Huaraz is widely regarded as the greatest hiking region in the Western Hemisphere. On a global scale, only the Himalayas rival it.
Yet, many still sleep on it…
et ready for insider tips on treks, gear, logistics, and much more. Here’s everything you need to know to plan your adventure.
Table of Contents
Introduction: High Altitude, Higher Rewards
I was three months into a solo trip through South America.
Following up heavy hitters like Colombia and Ecuador wasn’t going to be easy, but I had high hopes for Peru.
Many start their Peruvian adventures by eating ceviche in Lima or visiting Machu Picchu. Not me—I dove straight into Huaraz.
Following a sketchy night in gritty northern Lima where I was lost, alone, and without a cell phone late at night, I made it to Huaraz.
Frigid streams off glacial runoff (served as a nice cold plunge for the feet)
The Huaraz Travel Guide
Why Travel to Huaraz
Huaraz is the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca, the world’s highest tropical mountain range. It’s home to over 50 peaks above 5,000 meters, countless glaciers, and some of the most stunning trekking in the world.
It won’t be a direct journey if you’re traveling from the US or Europe. But it’s worth it, because…
World-class scenery and variety. The Cordillera Blanca features views, peaks, and variation in treks unlike anywhere else in the world. Only the Himalayas can compete.
Everyone is locked in on hiking. The hostels here ain’t for partying—they’re for trekking. Arrive solo and you’re bound to meet hiking buddies.
A path less traveled. Sure, the hiking world has been tuned in to Huaraz. But the majority of the world has never heard of it.
Where is Huaraz?
Check the map, and you’ll see that Huaraz is relatively close to the coast.
Keyword, relatively. Peru is massive, and the steep inclines from Lima make for an elevation gain of 10,000 feet (3000m) en route to Huaraz.
If you’re lucky, you’ll get a clear view of the ocean as you hug the coast. Then, you’ll enter steep Andean landscapes.
What’s the Best Way to Get to Huaraz?
Fly from Lima: There’s an airport just outside of Huaraz. It’s a domestic airport, with flights from Lima taking an hour.
Bus from Lima: In my view, the best option. Peru has excellent long-distance buses (I used Cruz Del Sur). I wanted to get the views and watch the terrain change from dusty coastline to snowcapped Andes.
Aboard the luxury bus, the windows are massive, the seats are comfortable, and the AC is abundant. I like how laid back the bus logistics are, as opposed to flying.
The ride from Lima took 6-7 hours. I booked a one-way for $20 through BusBud.
Bus from Trujillo: There are also buses to Huaraz from Trujillo. The ride is 8-9 hours.
Pro tip: In the high season, bus tickets back to Lima from Huaraz can go quickly, so try to book your return ticket a couple of days in advance.
Dramatic Landscape Changes From Lima to Huaraz
Starting from the coast in Lima, our journey began with a glimpse into the brutal, raw reality of impoverished Peru. Cloaked in red dust, it looked like Martian terrain for the first hour.
I grabbed the photo below, not to gawk at the everyday struggle, but to simply show the perspective. It blew my mind—I’d traveled LatAm extensively, but this was a different level.
As for the bus—it was leg day for that bus. The route was a show of strength—climbing, climbing, climbing.
Northern Lima
Altitude and Acclimatizing
Huaraz sits at 3000m (10,000 ft), and that’s just base camp.
All of your hikes will reach well into the 4000m range—most clearing 4500m (nearly 15,000 ft).
That said, the town itself is a great place to acclimatize. I spent the first day simply wandering around and did a warm-up hike.
It paid off—I never encountered altitude problems on my subsequent hikes. Plus, the town is filled with views that will make the day worthwhile.
Two good options for warm-up hikes:
Inside the city itself is Mirador de Rataquenua. You can walk to the base from the main square of Huaraz. A safe way to test your acclimatization as you’re not yet out in remote areas. Insane views.
Laguna Wilcacocha, not surpassing 4000m, is the warm-up hike. Grab some new friends from your hostel (someone is always going there) and get acquainted with the tropical Andes.
Hiking buddies at Mirador de Rataquenua
Planning Your Adventure
When to Go: Dry season, which runs from May to September. You’ll have clear skies and perfect trekking conditions. However, nights can get cold, especially at higher altitudes. I went in September, and hiking was splendid.
The Ultimate Huaraz Packing List:
Clothing
Moisture-wicking base layers
Insulated jacket for cold nights
Waterproof shell for unpredictable weather
Sturdy hiking boots
Gear
Lightweight backpack for day hikes; 50-70L pack (multi-day treks)
Sleeping bag rated for sub-zero temperatures for (multi-day treks)
Trekking poles (optional, but I never used them on day hikes)
Note: for Santa Cruz and Huayhuash guided tours, be sure to confirm with your tour company what gear is provided. Never rely on them to provide you warm clothing and the highest quality gear.
Essentials
SPF and sunglasses (the sun is intense at this altitude)
Snacks and electrolytes to combat altitude fatigue
A reusable water bottle with a filtration system—streams are common but not always safe. (My homie was drinking straight from the lagoon and he survived.)
Best Hikes in Huaraz: Top Trails for Every Level
Let’s get to the good stuff. Which hikes are you doing? All of them?
Laguna 69 — The Most Iconic Trek
The top tier of Huaraz treks. This one doesn’t f*ck around—it’s challenging but doable. Totally worth it.
Length: 7.5 miles (12 km) round-trip
Elevation Gain: ~2,000 feet (610 meters)
Max Elevation: 15,091 feet (4,600 meters)
Duration: 6-8 hours
This iconic day hike rewards you with a glacial lake so blue it looks photoshopped. Be prepared for steep climbs and the occasional llama traffic jam.
Shoutout to Jack, my new Aussie brother that hiked up to Laguna 69 with me. Snowing and frigid at the summit, we didn’t care—it was all smiles.
Pro Tips:
Going with a tour is A-OK. Try to get to the top earlier rather than later to get better conditions at the peak lagoon.
Pack plenty of water and snacks; the last stretch can be grueling.
The Santa Cruz Trek — The Multi-Day Crown Jewel
Length: ~31 miles (50 km)
Duration: 4 days, 3 nights
Max Elevation: 15,580 feet (4,750 meters) at Punta Unión Pass
This multi-day trek is the crown jewel of Huaraz hiking. You’ll pass through lush valleys, cross high-altitude passes, and camp under some of the clearest skies you’ve ever seen.
Guided tours range from $300-800 depending on gear quality, donkey support, and food.
Pro Tips:
Going as part of a tour gets you a mule to carry heavy loads. Free as a bee with just your day pack.
Layer up—temperatures drop significantly at night.
Laguna Churup — A One-Day Lagoon Paradise
Length: 4.3 miles (7 km) round-trip
Elevation Gain: ~2,400 feet (730 meters)
Max Elevation: 14,599 feet (4,450 meters)
Duration: 5-6 hours
Perfect as an acclimatization hike, Laguna Churup offers incredible views of a crystal-clear lake surrounded by rugged peaks. The trail includes a short rock scramble with a chain to support yourself, adding a touch of adventure.
Laguna Parón
Length: ~3 miles (5 km) round-trip (if hiking to viewpoints)
Max Elevation: 13,780 feet (4,200 meters)
Duration: 1-2 hours
Laguna Parón is the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca and a more relaxed option for hikers. Short hikes around the area offer jaw-dropping views of the turquoise waters and towering peaks like Artesonraju (often called the “Paramount Pictures mountain”).
Pastoruri Glacier
Length: 2 miles (3.5 km) round-trip
Max Elevation: 16,732 feet (5,100 meters)
Duration: 1-2 hours
Known as a “climate change trail,” this short trek brings you to one of the last glaciers in the region. It’s a gentle hike but takes you to extreme altitudes, so it’s best attempted after acclimatization.
Note that most tours start early, driving in darkness to arrive at the glacier for an incredible sunrise.
Huayhuash Circuit — For Those Ready to ‘Send It’
Length: ~81 miles (130 km)
Duration: 8-12 days
Max Elevation: 16,732 feet (5,100 meters)
For serious trekkers, the Huayhuash Circuit is one of the world’s most stunning and challenging multi-day treks. It loops around the Cordillera Huayhuash, featuring turquoise lakes, dramatic peaks, and remote Andean villages.
Guided treks range from $300 (shitty gear, BYO-snacks type of tour) to multiple thousands of dollars.
Better be ready to get down and dirty…
The trek is absurd, from what I heard.
I met a guy who’d just finished the 10-day journey. He was TOAST—dead-tired, but absolute Zen. No regrets. I later met the group he did it with, and they had this connection as if they’d known each other for years. Crazy.
It’s on my “list of fun ideas” to return to Huaraz and send this bad boy.
Other Notable Treks
You get the vibe… most treks feature vast, breathtaking Andean lands with a hard push to arrive at an electric blue lagoon.
But it doesn’t get old. Each trek has its own flavor to keep things interesting.
Huaraz Itinerary: 5 Days
A solid plan is to crush day hikes to get a nice mix of the different areas around Huaraz.
Day 1: Acclimatize. Walk around the town, and if you’re up to it, hike the Mirador de Rataquenua.
Day 2: Laguna Wilcacocha. Your warm-up hike.
Day 3: Laguna 69. You’re now in the big leagues.
Day 4: Rest day. Likely sore from the prior day, use this day to coordinate and meet hiking buddies for your remaining treks.
Day 5: Laguna Churup. Still challenging but beautiful. Not as hard as Laguna 69.
You want more? Do the 4-day Santa Cruz trek after these if time permits. Or, if you want to camp and get down and dirty, swap the list of day-hikes for Santa Cruz.
OR, grab life by the balls and do the 10-day Huyhuash trek.
The trek combinations are endless. We’re only touching on the most popular hikes, too. Countless less-explored treks are equally breathtaking.
Pro Tips
Fitness: While lower elevations like Torres Del Paine in Chile may be more forgiving, the altitude in Peru doesn’t play games. It’s of critical importance that you’re in decent shape and take time to acclimatize, or else you will have a bad time.
Carry Cash: Carry some soles on you for things like shuttles to treks, entrance fees, water, and snacks. Many places around Huaraz don’t accept cards.
Respect the Weather: In the dry season, the weather is great. But—it can get cold quickly at high altitudes.
Stay Hydrated: Hydration is always important, but it’s critical at altitude.
Connect: I respect the solo traveler seeking solitude. However, one of the great things I found in Huaraz was an international assortment of interesting hiking buddies. This made for some great memories, travel inspiration, and learning about others’ home countries.
Common Questions About Hiking Huaraz
Is Huaraz Safe?
Yes, it’s pretty safe. Pretty, because we’re still in Latin America—so standard protocols apply. Not flashing wealth, maintaining awareness, and keeping a low profile. I never felt at risk at all.
Food and water play into safety here, too. Food poisoning is common, so be careful, and definitely only drink bottled water.
On the mountain, safety will depend on hydration, adjustment to the altitude, and knowing where you’re going. Most trails are fairly well marked and have other hikers on them in the dry season.
How much does it cost to hike around Huaraz?
Peru is very affordable. Huaraz is cheap. Like, $6/night hostels cheap. Or $12/night private rooms on Airbnb.
Food, water, and transport are dirt cheap.
Many treks have entrance fees. Huascarán National Park has a day pass for 30 soles ($8 USD), or multi-day passes that make daily entrance cheaper.
You won’t spend much money in Huaraz (as long as you don’t fall victim to gringo scams)
A Note on Gringo Scams
I don’t mean anything dangerous. Just people hustling you for some cash.
For us, some random guy charged an “entrance fee” to pass a gate at Laguna Wilcococha. I knew he was full of shit, but handed him some cash so he’d fuck off. It wasn’t much. I did notice opportunistic behavior across Peru.
They have their reasons… is it right? That’s the subject of a different article. Just make sure you don’t pay triple the normal cost of a tour out of ignorance, which does happen.]
Should I hike Huaraz with a guided tour?
Huaraz is one of the few places where tours are actually worth it, and sometimes even required to get to treks.
For example, the Laguna 69 hike was a “tour” for a similar price as going on your own and paying for transport. Only, now you have a group, so you make hiking friends and don’t get lost. Worth it.
Bottom line—yes! “Tour” has a loose definition in Huaraz and many don’t come with annoying guides or extra charges. Just ask what all of the fees are upfront.
Hostels are great places to set these up (even if you’re not staying there).
How early should I book tours from Huaraz?
The day before! As stated, hostels will be your go-to for setting up tours. Tours can usually be booked the night before.
I booked nothing in advance of arriving in Peru. No pasa nada.
Can I rent gear?
Yes, there are tons of gear rental places in town with varying prices. Hostels sometimes can loan you gear.
Pro tip: If you stay in a hostel, you’ll likely meet a withered backpacker who’s just hiked 5 days straight and wants to take a day off. He or she may just loan you their gear for free.
[You’re now inside the mind of a broke backpacker three months into South America with no more f*cks to give… now pass me that Camelback.]
Do you need to train and prepare for Huaraz?
Hell yes. I would ensure you are at the requisite fitness level.
What’s the fitness level? Be completely mobile, able to walk long distances, and go up and down steep inclines. General hiking shape. Bonus if you’re from or can spend time in a place higher than sea level before.
How do I avoid altitude sickness in Huaraz?
It’s all about time. Slow adjustment.
Stay hydrated, avoid alcohol and excess caffeine, and take it slow…
On the mountain, it’s all about pacing. A local recommended breathing through the nose, too, for better oxygen saturation.
More info on acclimatization and altitude (according to the feds) here.
Personal Reflection: What Huaraz Did For Me
Huaraz is one of the few places I’d return to. I left much of it untrekked, and its natural beauty warrants further exploration.
Just in writing this article and revisiting my photos, I’m like “shit, I gotta do the Huayhuash.”
I got offline, connected with nature, and made tons of friends.
I proved to myself once again that I could go anywhere solo and be alright. Even with research and notes like this…
Actual screenshot from my “Peru Travel” planning note 🤦
Huaraz is special.
Conclusion: In Peru, Adventure Awaits
If Huaraz is on your travel list (and it should be), go get after it!
F*ck it, I recommend exploring more of South America. You likely traveled far to get to Peru, may as well stay a while…
You’ve got Colombia and Ecuador to the north. OR, go deeper into the continent, and check out Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina.
Is there a travel guide you want me to create? Have you been to Huaraz or are you planning to? Hit me on Instagram or in the comments.
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To your growth and travels,
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