The Ultimate Guide to the W-Trek in Torres Del Paine

The Ultimate Guide to Hiking the W-Trek in Torres Del Paine, Chile

This guide to Torres del Paine explores everything you need to know about the W-Trek.

We dive into logistics, gear tips, and my personal story.

A Patagonian and Chilean national park, Torres is one of the world’s most stunning parks.

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Table of Contents

• The Travel Guide For The W-Trek In Torres Del Pain …

  • The W-Trek vs the O-Trek

  • Is the W-Trek Hard?

  • Planning Your Adventure

  • Day-by-Day Itinerary

  • Pro Tips

  • Common Questions About The W-Trek

• Personal Reflection: What the W-Trek Did For Me

• Conclusion: In Patagonia, Adventure Awaits

Introduction: A Journey Worth Every Lopsided, Overloaded Step

In November 2022, I embarked on one of the world’s most iconic hikes: the W-Trek in Torres Del Paine National Park, Patagonia.

This hike is on the bucket list of anyone that considers themselves even a moderate hiking fan.

The hike, for me, was:

• Breathtaking landscapes

• a bit of labor carrying your life’s possessions on your back

• No shortage of community

The W Trail provides an otherworldly experience for hiking newbies and vets alike.

As for me—clearly a newbie, despite lots of hikes before. I’d recently completed the 5-day Salkantay trek in Peru.

My backpack was all lopsided and sh*t. Gotta be the reason for my present-day back problems.

I also did it in jeans, which I didn’t realize was abnormal, until Reddit was horrified. I would’ve done it in shorts or butt naked if they’d let me.

I’ll start with my personal story (those familiar with the newsletter know I like to talk sh*t and tell stories), then provide an in-depth guide for those looking to get after it.

You can skip my narrative about Russian love affairs and jump to the travel guide.

My Story: Russian Love Affairs in Buenos Aires Before Patagonia

The W-Trek was never not going to happen. I was already in the neighborhood of Torres National Park, staying in Buenos Aires.

[Not really, Buenos Aires is stupid far from Patagonia. But, Patagonia is far from everything, so I was close by being in Argentina.]

I’d been based up in big BA for a minute.

I’d fallen in love with a Russian shorty there and was all sprung, so I stuck around a bit. You know how that goes. (If you don’t, definitely find out…)

Buenos Aires is a sick city, by the way. To get to Patagonia, Google Flights will likely put you laying over in the Chilean capital of Santiago.

Pro tip: don’t do that.

Instead, I recommend flying down to Buenos Aires for a few days. Santiago is trash, fam, trust me (sorry, Chilenos). From there, you can get to Patagonia.

So anyways, I’m shacked up with a world-champ Tango dancer / hot Russian-model-chick (I’m bragging). She was giving me free private bachata lessons as I had the time of my life in Buenos Aires.

But I had to leave.

Those were the best weeks ever. Rooftop fettuccini alfredo 🤌, interesting expat friends, dancing bachata, sipping maté, jamming newfound artists like Duki and Trueno, and exploring the romantic, Euro-inspired capital of Argentina.

But I’d had the W-Trail booked for months. I did NOT want to go.

Like, at all. I’d never recapture the feeling of being in Buenos Aires, and trust me, I tried.

But I went.

[I must be the first man in history to say “eh, I guess I’ll go, dammit” about Torres Del Paine. Like it’s my in-laws for Christmas or something.]

But enough of the lovey-dovey, hanging out with warm milk and snuggles.

It was time to be in nature—to be a savage, grow out the beard, and wear a beanie to look sketchy.

I packed up the lone duffle bag I’d been living out of for five months and head south. It was time to wade further into the continent I’d been navigating for so long.

The Travel Guide For The W-Trek In Torres Del Paine (Finally)

The W-Trek vs the O-Trek

The W-Trek is named for its shape on the map, tracing a "W" as it weaves through valleys, glaciers, and rugged peaks. The W easily ranks as one of the best hikes in Patagonia.

You’ve also got the O-Trek, but at 10 days, that’s a bit much in my book. I’m down for extremes but hiking becomes a bit unenjoyable after a few days. Definitely could be a life-changing experience though.

Is the W-Trek Hard?

Though the W’s 50-mile (80 km) length seems daunting, the hike isn’t bad due to low to moderate elevation. You don’t encounter oxygen problems like you would trekking in Peru or Ecuador.

It’s got gentle trails, zero technical climbing, and no treacherously steep passes.

Split out between four or five days and you’ve got a pleasant hike.

Here’s what makes Torres Del Paine special:

• World-Class Scenery: Iconic landmarks like the Torres Towers, Grey Glacier, and French Valley.

• Accessible for Most Levels: The trek is manageable, dare I say easy for someone in decent shape. The hardest part is carrying your gear.

• Variety of Experiences: Encounter glaciers, lakes, forests, and open plains all in one trip.

Planning Your Adventure

1. When to Go: The best time to visit Torres Del Paine is from October to April, with November offering moderate crowds and great weather. I chose November, and it paid off—crisp mornings, sunny days, and windy nights.

2. Permits and Reservations:

   • Book campsites or refugios (lodges) months in advance through CONAF, Vertice Patagonia, or Fantástico Sur.

   • A park entrance fee is required and can be paid online or at the entrance.

   • The reservations and whatnot turned out to be harder than the hike itself. As a last-minute backpacker, planning far ahead sucked. I know a guy who booked the trek the day before (through a tour provider), but you’re gambling by doing that.

3. The Ultimate W-Trek Packing List:
   
   Download our actual packing and food list we used to plan our trip here 👇️ 
   

   Packing & Food List.pdf39.16 KB • PDF File Download

   • Clothing: Layers are key. Bring moisture-wicking base layers, a fleece, a waterproof jacket, and hiking boots. You want to be adaptable to the day’s warmth, the night’s cold, the wind, and rain—layer up and down as needed.

   • Gear: A great backpack can be the difference between an enjoyable hike and a bad time. A lightweight tent, a good sleeping bag, and sleeping pad. Hiking poles optional. Bring your stove, fuel, and cutlery (#SporksSaveWeight).

   • Food: Pre-packaged meals and snacks—you can also buy food in the park. Balance bringing tons of food for sustained energy, and not overpacking to stay light. I was munching nuts, dried fruit, and chocolate like a madman. Tons of energy.

   • Essentials: Bug spray is always a good call for hiking. SPF and sunglasses are also good for that near-South-Pole sun. A reusable water bottle with a built-in filter would’ve been sick, but I was sipping glacier runoff—straight. A microfiber towel is everything. A headlamp for sure is too. Lastly, a journal and pen to be all introspective on your journey.
     

   Honestly, I winged it. Zero gear of my own, banking on a random hostel to provide solid gear, and much less cargo than the average hiker.
   
   After months of solo backpacking through South America, I felt no need to prepare for anything. Luckily my hiking partner was much more prepared. Moral of the story—preparation always wins, but you don’t need to overprepare.
   

4. Campsite Unavailability: sometimes your trip may seem doomed due to key sites along the route being full for your dates. Worry not—there are ways around this by using the park’s ferries and shuttles to jump ahead. We had to do this and it all worked out (details below).

Day-by-Day Itinerary

We’ll use this map as our reference throughout the itinerary (you’ll want to save this one).

The Ideal Itinerary

Most do the hike from West to East. It can be done either way. If all campsites are available, simply book one for each night moving West to East. Your nightly bookings would look like this:

Night 1: Camp Grey

Night 2: Paine Grande

Night 3: Frances (or Cuernos as a backup)

Night 4: Camp Chileno

Our Detailed (Non-Ideal-But-Worked) Itinerary

We did a bit of an odd route rather than the standard West-to-East, due to campsite unavailability. We were still able to see and hike all of the W.

Day 1: Puerto Natales to Torres Del Paine. Night: Camp at Grey.

• Trek: Shuttle in from Puerto Natales. Arrive at Pudeto. Take the ferry (cost: 25 CLP) to Paine Grande. Hike four hours to Camp Grey.

• Highlights: Views on the shuttle, views on the magical ferry ride, arriving to the park with tons of travelers. Felt like Harry Potter on the first day of Hogwarts.

• Total Hiking Time: 6 hours

• Experience: The bus, ferry, and introductory hike were all easy and enjoyable.

Day 2: Grey to Glacier Grey; Grey to Paine Grande. Night: Camp Paine Grande.

• Trek: Leave bags at Grey and hike 1km north through the forest to two Glacier Grey viewpoints. Hike another 2.5km to rope bridges with a view. Hike back to Grey and have lunch. Pack up then hike four hours to Paine Grande.

• Highlights: Glacier Grey and floating icebergs.

• Total Hiking Time: 6.5 hours

• Experience: Easy but long hikes.

Day 3: Italianos. Night: Camp Paine Grande.

• Trek: Hiked as far as we could through Italiano (it’s possible to go as far as Britanico viewpoint). Traced back to Paine Grande for our second night there (this was to accommodate the unavailability at Frances).

• Total Hiking Time: 4 hours

• Experience: The French Valley felt like walking through a postcard.

Day 4: Paine Grande to Central. Night: Camp Central.

• Trek: No hiking this day. We needed to get all the way from Paine Grande to Torres (skipping over Frances and Cuernos). We took the ferry to Pudeto, and then a shuttle to the Amarga entrance.

• Total Hiking Time: None

• Highlights: The ferry ride again, connecting with travelers at Central.

Day 5: Central to the towers. Finish and return to Puerto Natales.

• Trek: Lots of moving this day. Our round-trip route:

  • Central to Chileno: 1.5 hrs.

  • Chileno to Base Torres: 2 hrs.

  • Base Torres to Chileno: 1 hr. 40 min.

  • Chileno to Central: 1.5 hrs.

• Highlights: The iconic Torres (towers) Del Paine themselves. Paydirt.

• Total Hiking Time: 6 hours and 40 minutes

• Experience: The sense of accomplishment completing the W.

Pro Tips

1. Be Fit: Just like, be fit, man. In all seriousness, the hike isn’t that hard. If you’re in anything resembling decent shape and can carry your pack for hours at a time, you will be good.

2. Pack Smart: Minimize weight while ensuring you have essentials. We underestimated our food need which could’ve been disastrous in primitive locations. Luckily, this park is built out and has you covered.

3. Respect the Weather: Patagonia’s weather is unpredictable—be prepared for sun, rain, and wind on the same day. Our nights were very windy and we had to bolt down the tent to keep from being blown away.

4. Stay Hydrated: The park’s streams offer some of the purest water you’ll ever drink—carry a refillable bottle.

5. Connect: I respect the solo traveler seeking solitude, and it’s very possible in Torres. But, this park offers tons of opportunities to meet travelers and is visited by people from seemingly every country. It won’t be hard to make friends here. I met fellow Texans, a seemingly impossible feat so far from the US.

Common Questions About The W-Trek

How much does it cost to do the W-Trek in Patagonia?

Your journey from your home country to Patagonia will be your biggest cost. After that, the trek can be done in a very affordable manner. Buy your food and snacks from local grocery stores in Chilean towns (not in the park). Rent hiking gear from your hostel or a rental company (if needed).

A rough budget may look like this:

• Campsites and entrance fee: $100

• Food: $60

• Gear rental from hostel (optional): $50

• Extra for backup food or shuttles inside park (optional): $50

• Shuttle to Torres, then back to Puerto Natales: $40

• Total Cost of W-Trek: $300

Cost of total trip from US—hostels, flights, EVERYTHING: $1000+

Should I do the W-Trek as a guided tour?

Hell nah. This trek can very easily be done self-guided and it would be a complete waste of money to pay someone to guide you. But, as you can see, I’m pretty anti-tour, and the one advantage of tours is that they can sometimes get you camping spots last minute.

How early should I book campsites in Torres Del Paine?

Early as you can. I booked a few months in advance and there were already sites I couldn’t get, so we had to pivot. You can get away with booking last minute but it’s risky.

Where should I base from?

We based in Puerto Natales and stored our stuff at a hostel to cut our backpack weight. It’s two hours from the park and has direct shuttles in and out. Definitely recommend.

Can I rent gear?

Yes, and I recommend it. I rented all of my gear from the hostel in Puerto Natales. Not the fanciest stuff but it did the job and it was cheap.

Do you need to train and prepare for the W-Trek?

No. You won’t experience altitude problems or technical trails. If you are in good enough shape to walk for hours at a time, you are good to go.

Are the refugios worth staying in?

No! There are different travel preferences, some lean towards luxury, and I get that. But I view hiking as an opportunity to get dirty, not shower, and be an animal. So, I say save your $200/night and be a dawg.

Personal Reflection: What the W-Trek Did For Me

I was off the grid for the whole five days. I think the lodges have Wi-Fi, but I didn’t want it.

I journaled, thought, and connected with travelers. I got pissed off during the trek a few times (my travel buddy can vouch—oops). I was in such a good mood in the following weeks due to the nature, community, and time offline.

The first shower in five days just hits different in terms of gratitude. Damn, I smelled bad (travel buddy can also vouch for that).

Conclusion: In Patagonia, Adventure Awaits

If the W circuit is on your bucket list (and it should be), there’s no better time to start planning. With the right preparation and mindset, this hike can be one of the most rewarding experiences of your life.

And if you can—do it all offline. Just disconnect and enjoy great nature and people.

Have you done the W or are you planning to? Get at me on Instagram or in the comments. I have an iPhone Note I used to plan logistics that I can share with you. It will save you hours—trust me, fam.

To your growth and travels,